Ko Samui is Thailand's third largest island at 247 square kilometres, and during the last decade it has become one of Southeast Asia's premier tourist destinations.

Ko Samui sits snugly in the Gulf of Thailand, surrounded by other island gems like Ko Pha-ngan and Ko Tao, and is located 84 km. east of Surat Thani, the provincial capital on the mainland. With soft-sand beaches shaded by towering palms, delicious fresh seafood and a vibrant nightlife, Samui has a magical formula that seems to cast its spell on everyone.

Many visitors are content to laze the days away on the beach, soaking up the sun and cooling off in the turquoise waters, but for action enthusiasts there are plenty of choices. Diving and snorkelling, windsurfing and paragliding, beach volleyball and off-road driving (and other similar activities).

One of the island's most appealing features is its loop road, which makes a 50 km. circuit around the island, giving tantalizing glimpses of superb beaches on the north, east and west coasts. It runs past sleepy fishing villages and through seas of coconut palms, passing Samui's most impressive waterfall and tempting turn-offs into the highlands along the way. Other attractions on or near the road include a butterfly farm, a snake show, a monkey-training centre, and health spas dedicated to pampering the body.

There's plenty on Samui to keep even the most jaded traveller happy for a week or two, but for anyone spending even a few days here, an opportunity not to be missed is a trip to the emerald islands of the Ang Thong Marine National Park, which offers yet another version of a tropical paradise.

CHAWENG BEACH

Situated on Samui's east coast, this is Samui's longest and most beautiful beach, a 6 km. strip of powder-soft sand fronted by crystal-clear water. It also has the island's largest concentration of accommodation, ranging from five-star resorts to simple bamboo bungalows. Chaweng is the centre for watersport activities like windsurfing and jetskiing in the day, and it has a great social scene at night, when the dance halls pulsate to the latest rhythms.

LAMAI BEACH

Also on the east coast, just south of Chaweng, Lamai attracts surfers to its playful waters, which run a little deeper than at Chaweng. Behind the beach there are several spas, where visitors can treat themselves to a herbal sauna, a relaxing Thai massage, or even a mud facial.

MAENAM, BOPHUT AND BANG RAK BEACHES

These are all located along the north coast, and ideal places for those who want to get away from it all. Bang Rak is often called 'Big Buddha Beach' because of the huge Buddha image at the eastern end of the beach that looks particularly impressive at sunset.

SOUTH AND WEST COAST BEACHES

Even more isolated than the north coast beaches, those on the south and west coasts are not linked by the island's ring road, though access is easy enough for anyone curious to take a look. At Laem Set in the south, the sea is too shallow for swimming, but the huge, smooth boulders on the beach and coconut palms leaning over at impossible angles give it a special feel.

In the island's southwest, Taling Ngam Bay may not be quite as perfect as Chaweng, but has a long strip of sand that is often deserted and makes an ideal spot for a beach ramble. At the northern end of the bay, the luxurious Ban Taling Ngam Resort has several swimming pools and villas set on a hill with great views of the beach.

ANG THONG MARINE NATIONAL PARK

Situated about 20 km. west of Samui, this archipelago of 42 islands fits everyone's image of a tropical paradise, with huge, limestone rocks covered in virgin rainforest rising out of the aquamarine waters. Most people go here on a day trip from Ko Samui, which is easy to organize.

There is a fantastic viewpoint on Ko Wua Talap, just above the park headquarters, looking out over the uninhabited, pristine islands. Trips around the park usually include a visit to a delightful concealed lagoon on Ko Mae Ko, as well as the opportunity to paddle a sea kayak around the strange limestone formations.

KO PHA-NGAN

Just 20 km. north of Ko Samui and a short boat trip away, Ko Pha-ngan is a mountainous island ringed18 by secluded bays that offer ideal getaways. Its only town of any size, Thong Sala, has a bank, post office, supermarket and shops selling beach equipment and souvenirs.

Many of its beautiful beaches are accessible only by boat, though pick-up trucks and motorbikes also ply the island's rough roads. Its most famous beach is Hat Rin, in the southeast corner of the island, which is the location for the world-famous full moon parties that attract thousands of visitors each month to dance the night away on the beach.

The island's most picturesque beach is Thong Nai Pan, a double bay in the northeast of the island, which has good swimming and snorkelling, as well as the island's most comfortable accommodation. A little south of Thong Nai Pan is Than Sadet, the island's most impressive waterfall, which was once a favourite place of King Chulalongkorn.

KO TAO

'Tao' means turtle, and the island is named for its shape west on the mainland. The island is particularly popular among divers, and has a reputation for some of the most exciting dive sites in the entire gulf. Several companies based at Mae Hat, the island's only town, can arrange dives for beginners and experienced divers. There are many peaceful and idyllic beaches on the island, such as Sai Ri, the island's longest beach on its west coast, and Chalok Ban Kao and Sai Daeng on the south coast. There is also a unique geological phenomenon at Nang Yuan, a tiny cluster of islets just off the northwest coast of Ko Tao, where stunning causeways of sand join the islands, offering visitors the choice of two seas to swim in.

HIN TA AND HIN YAI

Meaning 'Grandfather and Grandmother Rocks', these unusual rock formations, named for their similarity to the sexual organs, can be found at the south end of Lamai beach, and are one of Ko Samui's most photographed features.

NA MUANG WATERFALL

There are two levels to this attractive waterfall, which tumbles down out of the highlands. The nearest one to the road has about a 20-metre drop and a refreshing pool to cool off in. A steep side road leads to the higher level, which is even more impresive, and where elephant treks are also possible.

NA THON

This is the island's main town and port, situated on the west coast, and is constantly bustling with visitors arriving and leaving. It is the place to go shopping for beach gear, extending visas or just watch the port activity from a street cafe.

SAMUI BUTTERFLY GARDEN

Set on a gentle slope in the southeast corner of the island, the garden contains a wide range of bright and unusual flowers, above which flit hundreds of butterflies, creating a captivating environment beneath meshed nets.

SNAKE SHOWS

For anyone fascinated by snakes, a visit to one of the island's snake shows is a must. The fearless handlers play with deadly species, and offer visitors the chance to get up close and touch their slithery skin.

MONKEY SHOWS

The monkeys' famed ability as coconut collectors once formed the basis of Samui's economy, and at the shows their skills are displayed for all to see

With such clear waters and an abundance of marine life, water sports are very popular on Samui, and the king of these sports is diving. Around a dozen dive companies based on the island offer the chance for experienced divers to join them and for beginners to learn how to dive (hotels and guest houses can make the necessary arrangements).

If diving sounds a bit too much of a challenge, then snorkelling is a good second best. Join a trip to one of the nearby coral reefs, put on a mask, snorkel and fins, then float above the reefs and marvel at the varied shapes and colours of the fish.

If you'd rather keep your head above water, then maybe sea kayaking is the sport for you. Once you've mastered how to propel these small, light craft, you can explore the shoreline in perfect peace.

For a bit more of a thrill, try windsurfing, jetskiing or paragliding, and feel the tropical breeze in your hair. Hotel and guest house owners can give you more information about your chosen sport.

If you're water shy, just hang around the beach in the evening and join in one of the spontaneous games of beach volleyball that are so popular, or even takro, a Thai game of skill that is something like playing volleyball with the feet.

If exploring the island's interior sounds like fun, hire a 4WD vehicle and try your hand at off-road driving on the bumpy trails leading to the highlands.

There are plenty of shops behind Chaweng beach where you can buy beachwear, and tailors will measure you and make up a suit or dress while you relax on the beach. If you're looking for souvenirs, there are plenty of options, ranging from colourful, carved soaps to chopsticks and coasters made from local coconut wood. There are also several art shops selling reproductions of famous works of art at very reasonable prices.